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Stories from the Netherlands.

At the table

Chunky apple and potato mash topped with golden onions in a white bowl.AI-generated image

Apple and potato mash with golden onions

Apples need not wait for dessert. In this chunky mash they bring a fresh, sweet note to the potatoes, while the onions take their time turning golden in a separate pan. Spoon them over at the table to keep the two textures distinct.

Golden oat crumble with soft apple visible beneath the topping.AI-generated image

Apple crumble with oats: leave a few bigger crumbs

Do not rub the mixture too finely. The larger crumbs are part of the pleasure of spooning through the topping to the soft apples below. Oats give the top a coarser texture, while cinnamon goes in with the fruit.

Bowl of orange pumpkin soup with sour cream and toasted pumpkin seeds.AI-generated image

Pumpkin soup with toasted seeds

Roast the pumpkin first; only then add it to the stock. Keep the seeds separate until serving.

Sliced golden mushroom and leek tart on a plate.AI-generated image

Mushroom and leek tart with thyme

Cook off most of the mushroom moisture first so the pastry stays crisp. Then the filling only needs to set.

Sliced beetroot tart with a pink egg-and-cream filling, goat cheese and thyme.AI-generated image

Beetroot tart with goat cheese and thyme

Precooked beetroot makes this tart manageable on an ordinary cooking evening. A thin pastry base holds a pink filling, soft goat cheese and a little thyme.

Firm dark brown spiced loaf with walnuts and almonds, with several slices cut off.AI-generated image

Groningen nut loaf with a spiced crumb

The nuts go underneath and on top of the dough. A low oven temperature gives this firm spiced loaf time to cook right through.

Pale beige celeriac soup with a spoonful of yogurt and finely snipped chives.AI-generated image

Celeriac soup with apple and chives

The apple goes into the pan too, adding a fresh note to this smooth celeriac soup. A spoonful of yogurt and a few chives finish each bowl.

Golden frittata with potato slices and leek rings in a black ovenproof pan.AI-generated image

Potato and leek frittata with farmhouse cheese

Thin potato slices give this frittata substance, while gently cooked leeks add flavour. The oven does the final part; there is no need to turn the filled pan over.

Warm pearl barley with roasted carrot pieces, parsley and green pumpkin seeds.AI-generated image

Warm barley salad with roasted carrots

Roast the carrots until their edges colour, then toss them with chewy barley. Mustard, lemon and pumpkin seeds give this warm salad a fresh, crunchy finish.

About six golden-brown, hand-knotted white buns with visible anise seeds on a cooling rack; one is split and topped with butter and a speculaas biscuit.AI-generated image

Anijskrollen: knotted white buns full of anise

A krol is a soft white bun with a knot in it and enough anise to scent the kitchen when the oven opens. In Veghel and the surrounding area, it is spread generously with butter and topped with a crisp speculaas biscuit.

A deep bowl of thick green pea soup with pieces of carrot, leek and celeriac, sprinkled with chopped leaf celery, next to a slice of rye bread.AI-generated image

Thick split pea soup: the spoon almost stands up

Split peas need no soaking. They slowly cook down into a thick base, in which leek, carrot, celeriac and potato then cook through. This soup becomes even thicker and tastier the next day.

Three homemade Bossche bollen about 7 cm wide, with glossy dark-chocolate caps on a plate; one is cut open to show the whipped cream.AI-generated image

Bossche bollen at home: eight choux buns capped with dark chocolate

The familiar bakery Bossche bol is large; this home version makes eight smaller choux buns about 7 cm across. Bake them thoroughly or they will collapse. Dip only the tops in dark chocolate and fill with whipped cream just before eating.

A round Frisian orange cake with pale pink icing on a ceramic plate on a wooden table; one slice has been cut out, showing a pale yellow crumb with small orange pieces of candied orange peel.AI-generated image

Frisian orange cake (oranjekoek): pink on top, orange inside

Order an oranjekoek and you get something pink. The name is hidden inside: slivers of candied orange peel baked into the batter. This home version is a flat 24 cm cake with a pinch of aniseed and an icing of icing sugar and orange juice.

A small stack of small, round golden-brown biscuits with visible pieces of hazelnut and aniseeds in an earthenware dish.AI-generated image

Fryske dúmkes: aniseed, ginger and hazelnut

Dúmke is Frisian for little thumb, although nobody knows for sure where the name comes from. The dough goes into the fridge as a log and is then cut into slices. In this version, aniseed and ginger provide the aroma and finely chopped hazelnuts the bite.

An ovenproof dish of potato gratin browned golden on top, in which thin potato slices, green leek rings and melted cheese with dark specks of clove are visible.AI-generated image

Potato gratin with leek and Frisian clove cheese (nagelkaas)

You taste nagelkaas straight away: cloves and cumin are in the cheese itself. In this oven dish it melts between thin slices of potato and soft leek. That is why the rest of the seasoning stays modest: a clove of garlic, a pinch of nutmeg and some pepper in the milk.

An earthenware dish of dark brown, tender shredded braised beef in a glossy, thickened sauce, with a portion of chips beside it.AI-generated image

Zuurvlees: vinegar in, sweetness out

The vinegar does its work overnight in the fridge. Then the meat braises gently for hours until gingerbread and syrup thicken the sauce and turn the sourness into something deeper. Taste it and you look for the sour, but mostly find sweetness.

A round Limburg rice vlaai with a golden crust and a golden-speckled rice filling, one slice cut out and served on a plate beside it.AI-generated image

Rice vlaai: rice pudding on a thin yeasted base

First the rice slowly turns into pudding in the milk; then it goes into the oven on a thin base of yeasted dough. The result is a creamy vlaai with a firm crust you can eat from your hand if need be, saving the crust for last.

Whole peeled cooking pears with stalks, deep red, in a white earthenware dish with a dark red syrupy sauce, a cinnamon stick and lemon zest.AI-generated image

Stewed pears with Limburg syrup

A cooking pear does not soften on its own; it needs hours in the pan. A spoonful of apple and pear syrup gives the liquid a dark, fruity depth. The longer the pears stew, the redder they become.

Folded buckwheat pancakes with mushrooms, crème fraîche and chives on a plate.AI-generated image

Buckwheat pancakes with a savoury filling

No syrup today: these thin pancakes are filled with fried mushrooms and a spoonful of crème fraîche. Buckwheat gives the batter an earthy flavour; the wheat flour helps when you turn the pancakes.

Roughly mashed potatoes with fine green runner bean strips and golden onion rings.AI-generated image

Runner bean mash with golden onions

The runner beans remain visible here: fine green strips through roughly mashed potatoes, with soft fried onions on top. A small spoonful of mustard gives the mash a little bite.

A loose stack of thin, flat, light-brown kniepertjes with a fine waffle pattern on a plate.AI-generated image

Flat kniepertjes: let the waffle iron do the work

You do not need an oven for these thin wafers. A small ball of dough goes between the hot plates; a few minutes later, a light-brown biscuit is resting on the rack.

Kersenvlaai met een rooster van gistdeeg en een royale kersenvulling — eigen AI-beeldAI-generated image

Limburg vlaai: thin crust, generous filling

A Limburg vlaai is not a pie made with puff pastry. It is yeast dough, fruit from a fruit-growing region, and a festive bake that was already known by that name in the nineteenth century.

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